Wednesday, August 21, 2013

Butterick 5813 Trouble

Hey there Friends :)

So, when I should be finishing up one project I decide to pick up another!
I've been dyyyyyyying to make Butterick 5813 in version C. Now, I wonder what I chose that style.... ;)
Photo from wesewretro.com


I can't wait to make this style!
photo from wesewretro.com
Anyways, I spent forever and a day obsessively cutting out the pieces and adding my tailors tacks all over the place. This afternoon, I decided it's time to start stitching. Except, I only made it a few steps before I ran into a little bump. Normally, I'd be too embarrassed to admit that I'm struggling (it's the noob in me), but today I'm in the mood to learn, so I thought I'd come to you guys.

In version C (full skirt), you'll notice the verticle pieces on the side of the bodice front. I've basted them in place, but, at the pivot point, I'm bunching pretty badly.


Pivot point is suuuuper bunchy :/

Another view
But on a side note....isn't this fabric awesome? I'm totally on a daisy kick, aren't I?

Basting stitches
In the photo directly above, it's hard to see, but dead center is the pivot point...it looks like crud! :(
Anyways, I was wondering if you have any tips for little things like this, or maybe my fingers are just spaghetti. In the mean time I'm just going to do some homework. Sometimes I just need to set it down and reset my approach.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions & tips :)


4 comments:

  1. Whenever I need to do a pivot, I actually take the garment out of the machine and hand stitch it. I trust my hands better then the machine!
    However I also learnt that if you sew into a V or pivot, that you try to pull/straighten the seamline out so that the machine sews a straight line and doesn't have the turn a corner. I hope that makes sense?

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    Replies
    1. It does! Thank you! I've discovered before that it does need to be a sharp turn in order to get the right look (is that what you meant? lol)
      I was considering stitching by hand, but wasn't sure if it would hold up well?

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  2. I've had to do a pivot on this fall jacket I'm working on and I nearly had a melt down because I haven't had to do a pivot in soooooo long! (Yes, even people like me who make their own patterns have meltdowns!)

    I'm not sure if this exactly applies to the garment you're working on, but what you do is sew up to the end of a corner area, keeping just before the seam allowance and stop with the needle still in the fabric. I lift up my foot and swing the fabric around to where I need it to be for the other half of the corner. It actually helps to clip your corner before pivoting (not through and into the garment, just to!) and then pivot. This way, you can match your seam allowances up with the second part of the seamline. Is that seemingly what you need to do?

    Hope that works out!

    I have a really hard time following my own advice, but don't freak out. Even very seasoned sewers have issues with things - things they have even done before!

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  3. Oh yeah, I also just remembered that especially at corners, we were told to dial your stitch down to a 1 or 2 so that corner stays stitched. This way, you get more stitches per surface area on the seam if that makes sense.

    This might be just for collars with points though.

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